15th Massachusetts Regimental Coat Construction – Part 2

Sleeve work can start. Begin by pinning the top edge and draw a seam line. I allow for a ½ inch seam.UniformConstruction16

Once the seams are stitched they are pressed flat. Now set aside to work on the cuffs
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Cuffs are double up with their body color counterpart. They are then pinned and a basting stitch is applied all the way around. Tim both parts so they match as best as possible. Remove the pins. Up next…tack the cuffs onto the sleeves.
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In chalk, I’ve marked the sewing line ¾ of an inch in from the edge.
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Now the cuffs are tacked down with pins along the sewing line.
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Stitched on with a backstitch for more supportUniformConstruction21

Fold over the cuff and press flat. Ensure the peak is on the top seam. Pin in place.
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Two cuff sewn on. They will be sized correctly once the bottom sleeve seam is done. The bottom seam is where some tailoring and the faux slash come in.
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I’ve made a small notch (not past the sew line) which will make the faux slash cuff area. 6” in from the front edge.
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Press the bottom seam flat. Don’t press the slash cuff area at this time.
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Use an oven mit and press the seam from the good side. It makes for a nicer, flatter seam.
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Time to trim off the excess of the cuff. Trim it even with the undyed grey wool.
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With the cuff pinned you can see what the faux slash will look like.
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Another view of the cuff. This style of cuff is used for either peaked or non-peaked cuffs. Roll-over cuffs where the buttons are arranged vertically are made in a different manner.
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Pin up and press the inside of the cuff about ½ inch.
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I’ve adjusted the cuff diameter so it about 5-5 ¼ inches in length. Regardless of the opening dimension, ensure the cuffs are uniform.
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Use a like color cotton or linen thread and stitch down the pressed-down wool on the inside of the cuff. Use an overcast stitch.
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Use a running stitch to tack down the area between the cuff and where you made the slash 6” in from the edge.
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End of Part 2

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