Sleeve work can start. Begin by pinning the top edge and draw a seam line. I allow for a ½ inch seam.
Once the seams are stitched they are pressed flat. Now set aside to work on the cuffs
Cuffs are double up with their body color counterpart. They are then pinned and a basting stitch is applied all the way around. Tim both parts so they match as best as possible. Remove the pins. Up next…tack the cuffs onto the sleeves.
In chalk, I’ve marked the sewing line ¾ of an inch in from the edge.
Now the cuffs are tacked down with pins along the sewing line.
Stitched on with a backstitch for more support
Fold over the cuff and press flat. Ensure the peak is on the top seam. Pin in place.
Two cuff sewn on. They will be sized correctly once the bottom sleeve seam is done. The bottom seam is where some tailoring and the faux slash come in.
I’ve made a small notch (not past the sew line) which will make the faux slash cuff area. 6” in from the front edge.
Press the bottom seam flat. Don’t press the slash cuff area at this time.
Use an oven mit and press the seam from the good side. It makes for a nicer, flatter seam.
Time to trim off the excess of the cuff. Trim it even with the undyed grey wool.
With the cuff pinned you can see what the faux slash will look like.
Another view of the cuff. This style of cuff is used for either peaked or non-peaked cuffs. Roll-over cuffs where the buttons are arranged vertically are made in a different manner.
Pin up and press the inside of the cuff about ½ inch.
I’ve adjusted the cuff diameter so it about 5-5 ¼ inches in length. Regardless of the opening dimension, ensure the cuffs are uniform.
Use a like color cotton or linen thread and stitch down the pressed-down wool on the inside of the cuff. Use an overcast stitch.
Use a running stitch to tack down the area between the cuff and where you made the slash 6” in from the edge.
End of Part 2